Mutrah souk
Wadi Tiwi
Wadi Tiwi
Goats at Al Ayjah
Wadi Shab
As Sifah Beach
Jabrin Castle
Camels following Toyota (mom attached, baby learning to follow)
Girls decorated with Henna for Eid
Randy at Bibi Mariam's tombFRIDAY: We flew into Muscat late Friday night on a direct British Airways flight from Abu Dhabi. We ordered "chicken lollipops" and fish and chips from room service and called it a night.
SATURDAY: The famed souq in Mutrah was closed for Eid. The shops were closed, and most people were at home spending time with family. We encountered a few kids tossing firecrackers, and some little girls all adorned in colorful traditional dress. We met up with Leanne and Rob, two other teachers from our school who had rented a Hummer (we would later be thankful for the 4-wheel drive--on the sandy beach). We drove out to As Sifah and relaxed on the beach, explored the waters of the Indian Ocean, and encountered all sorts of fish, crabs, and snails, including several snail gatherings in the wash zone who had congregated to feast on a dead crab or two.
SUNDAY: A tour guide took Christine and me on a trip into "Castle Country": Nizwa, Bahla, and Jabrin. Oman is rocky and mountainous, with a few date palms to break up the monotony of the desert. At one point, out of the blue our tour guide announced, "I like sand." Good thing. The forts/castles provided excellent views of the surrounding area as well as a glimpse into the history, culture, and lifestyle of an ancient civilization. I particularly liked the methods of preventing intruders from reaching the forts: At Nizwa, for example, an army had to breach seven heavy doors while having scalding hot date honey poured on top of them!
MONDAY: We were reunited with Leanne and Rob, who had spent their finial night in a tent on the beach (they used our hotel shower) before they headed back to Abu Dhabi. The souqs in Mutrah were open, and we were shopping. The souqs offered khanjars (curved silver Omani daggers), traditional hats and clothing, frankincense with many added aromas, silver and gold trinkets, souvenirs of all sorts, and busloads of tourists. Christine even ran into one of her students there (who was also staying at our hotel). She took the opportunity to harass the boy in front of his parents, one of those "teacher perks."
TUESDAY: Christine and I rented our own 4-wheel drive (this time a Toyota Land Cruiser) so that we could drive 150 km southeast along the coast to Sur. The paved road out of Muscat was reduced from four lanes to two, and then it became an unmarked gravel "road" that took some effort to find. A new, four-lane, paved highway is being constructed, and at times we could drive on part of that. Other times, we were flying down hills, into gullies and dry river beds with deep drops and steep inclines, over the rough rocks and loose sand, then bouncing back onto the highway. We had headaches by the time we reached Sur--but it was fun. We stopped at Wadi Tiwi along the way, an oasis of sorts between two rocky mountains that dip into the ocean. Palm trees, blue lagoons, and huge rocks characterize the wadi. The road into the wadi narrows as you climb further into it, adding another sense of adventure. The contrast of the blue water and the green palms is incredible against the rocky desert scenery. Our journey ended in Sur, at least for a few hours. Then we drove further south, to Ras al Jinz, an isolated beach where we saw green turtles. A mother turtle was laying egg after egg in the sand, and we saw baby turtles heading back to the sea as well. It was a memorable evening but a late night for us. By the time we reached Sur again, we were ready for bed.
WEDNESDAY: We explored the coastal town of Sur: the fisheries' harbor, the Corniche, the Dhow Shipyard (which had recently burned). At the Dhow Shipyard, a boat man offered us a boat tour around Sur, where we saw many fascinating schools of fish, including several that leapt together out of the water upon being startled by us. Along the coast, we also saw a puffer fish on land (it was dead) and a goat in the water (also dead). Live animals included herons poking around the cliffs, mules wandering on the side of the road, and goats eating trash. We also visited the neighboring town of Al Ayjah, known for its eleborate doors on many of the simple, white-washed homes there. After lunch at the only restaurant in Al Ayjah, we followed the locals' example and took a siesta before returning to the streets for a little shopping and finally dinner.
THURSDAY: Taking the coastal road again, we returned to Muscat, stopping at the tomb of Bibi Maryam and at Wadi Shab, another scenic wadi, for a two-hour hike alternating between shady palms and water and wide-open rocks and sand, leading up into the mountains. Our day concluded in Muscat, with a brief walk on the beach before returning the Toyota to the airport and waiting...and waiting...and waiting, tired but satisfied, for the midnight flight back home to Abu Dhabi.
SATURDAY: The famed souq in Mutrah was closed for Eid. The shops were closed, and most people were at home spending time with family. We encountered a few kids tossing firecrackers, and some little girls all adorned in colorful traditional dress. We met up with Leanne and Rob, two other teachers from our school who had rented a Hummer (we would later be thankful for the 4-wheel drive--on the sandy beach). We drove out to As Sifah and relaxed on the beach, explored the waters of the Indian Ocean, and encountered all sorts of fish, crabs, and snails, including several snail gatherings in the wash zone who had congregated to feast on a dead crab or two.
SUNDAY: A tour guide took Christine and me on a trip into "Castle Country": Nizwa, Bahla, and Jabrin. Oman is rocky and mountainous, with a few date palms to break up the monotony of the desert. At one point, out of the blue our tour guide announced, "I like sand." Good thing. The forts/castles provided excellent views of the surrounding area as well as a glimpse into the history, culture, and lifestyle of an ancient civilization. I particularly liked the methods of preventing intruders from reaching the forts: At Nizwa, for example, an army had to breach seven heavy doors while having scalding hot date honey poured on top of them!
MONDAY: We were reunited with Leanne and Rob, who had spent their finial night in a tent on the beach (they used our hotel shower) before they headed back to Abu Dhabi. The souqs in Mutrah were open, and we were shopping. The souqs offered khanjars (curved silver Omani daggers), traditional hats and clothing, frankincense with many added aromas, silver and gold trinkets, souvenirs of all sorts, and busloads of tourists. Christine even ran into one of her students there (who was also staying at our hotel). She took the opportunity to harass the boy in front of his parents, one of those "teacher perks."
TUESDAY: Christine and I rented our own 4-wheel drive (this time a Toyota Land Cruiser) so that we could drive 150 km southeast along the coast to Sur. The paved road out of Muscat was reduced from four lanes to two, and then it became an unmarked gravel "road" that took some effort to find. A new, four-lane, paved highway is being constructed, and at times we could drive on part of that. Other times, we were flying down hills, into gullies and dry river beds with deep drops and steep inclines, over the rough rocks and loose sand, then bouncing back onto the highway. We had headaches by the time we reached Sur--but it was fun. We stopped at Wadi Tiwi along the way, an oasis of sorts between two rocky mountains that dip into the ocean. Palm trees, blue lagoons, and huge rocks characterize the wadi. The road into the wadi narrows as you climb further into it, adding another sense of adventure. The contrast of the blue water and the green palms is incredible against the rocky desert scenery. Our journey ended in Sur, at least for a few hours. Then we drove further south, to Ras al Jinz, an isolated beach where we saw green turtles. A mother turtle was laying egg after egg in the sand, and we saw baby turtles heading back to the sea as well. It was a memorable evening but a late night for us. By the time we reached Sur again, we were ready for bed.
WEDNESDAY: We explored the coastal town of Sur: the fisheries' harbor, the Corniche, the Dhow Shipyard (which had recently burned). At the Dhow Shipyard, a boat man offered us a boat tour around Sur, where we saw many fascinating schools of fish, including several that leapt together out of the water upon being startled by us. Along the coast, we also saw a puffer fish on land (it was dead) and a goat in the water (also dead). Live animals included herons poking around the cliffs, mules wandering on the side of the road, and goats eating trash. We also visited the neighboring town of Al Ayjah, known for its eleborate doors on many of the simple, white-washed homes there. After lunch at the only restaurant in Al Ayjah, we followed the locals' example and took a siesta before returning to the streets for a little shopping and finally dinner.
THURSDAY: Taking the coastal road again, we returned to Muscat, stopping at the tomb of Bibi Maryam and at Wadi Shab, another scenic wadi, for a two-hour hike alternating between shady palms and water and wide-open rocks and sand, leading up into the mountains. Our day concluded in Muscat, with a brief walk on the beach before returning the Toyota to the airport and waiting...and waiting...and waiting, tired but satisfied, for the midnight flight back home to Abu Dhabi.
5 comments:
Great story but I need pictures! Sounds like another great adventure.
Paula
Hot honey, huh? Maybe they were asking for it. All's fair in love and war i guess (the cliche just fits here). Great to catch up with you...
csim
You guys seem to travel even more intense than we do. Most of the time we take "mini-vacations" and come back more tired than we started. But they are always fun.
Thanks for the story! Loved it!
Ahh...pictures. Millie really liked the one with the camels since she was riding one at the zoo the other day.
Paula
What are "chicken lollipops?" Is that like chicken on a stick?
I'm so glad you saw baby turtles! They are soooo cute and tiny when they hatch.
Love the pics! What's with the goats? Are they your kids? hehehe. Sorry, couldn't resist the bad joke.
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