18 October 2013

Tour of Lahore

Badshahi Mosque during an Eid holiday/ belated birthday tour
Randy followed through on a birthday gift with a tour of some of Lahore's more interesting sites.  In one day we were promised the Lahore Fort and Badshahi (Royal) Mosque, Lahore Museum, Anarkali Bazaar, Shalimar Garden, Wahgah border show and ending with Gawal Mandi for dinner.  In our 10-hour tour we only accomplished the fort, mosque, old town, garden and border extravaganza.  Based on my exhaustion at the end of it all, I honestly think it would be impossible to do all of those activities in one day.

Our guide Imran was very personable.  His take on arranged marriage: if you and your wife fight, you can blame your parents.  Imran said he fell in love with his cousin but still married who his parents wanted and that his life is fine.  He also made a brief go at the Pakistan-USA political situation.  Imran and the driver together were quite the comedians and made many jokes about Randy's sweating abilities and the driver's eating ones- both being declared most healthy.  For me, the funniest parts of the day came each time Randy was asked for another picture with a group of guys; ten times is a conservative estimate for how often that happened.

WARNING: the following album does NOT feature Anastasia or Talula, does include some photos of Eid in all its gory (I'm mean, glory) and may want to make you visit Pakistan.

THE ALBUM: click here to be wowed

13 October 2013

Talula's 3rd Birthday (zoo, ambulance, roof)

follow this link to see an album of the zoo and birthday

How to tell this story without it sounding ridiculous?
Saturday morning started off as many do: wake up by 5:30 (thanks, Anastasia!), pancakes and then Khalil arrives to take us somewhere.  Today it was going to be the Lahore Zoo as part of the festivities for Talula’s third birthday.
The first surprise of the day was that our driver’s quote for the zoo fee of 15 PKR was what we paid as well.  I had expected a “foreigner’s fee” but all four of us got in for less than 40 cents.  Adults were 15 PKR each; the girls cost a mere 5 PKR.  I guess they don’t get enough foreigners to make it worth their effort.
The visit started well.  Anastasia raced from one exhibit to another, there was a brief jumping-off-the-bench competition by the giraffes and Talula managed to touch a baby gazelle on the nose.  All the animals had plenty of space and appeared well-fed.  We saw hippos, rhinos, an elephant, various birds and ungulates, chimpanzees drinking tea, a camel, zebras, lions with cubs and the snake house.  It was as we went for a closer view of the lions, tiger, puma and other cats that we got in trouble.
The large cat-viewing space climbed up hill with a series of waves to make it easier to see the animals.  Anastasia and Talula immediately saw its potential and began running down it.  I warned them to be safe and they were being somewhat cautious.   Anastasia was wearing a zebra dress and Talula had a snake shirt on.  The bobcat actually started stalking Anastasia as she ran up and down the hill.  On one of the trips up, she looked to the side to see if he was following her and she fell flat on her face.
By the time I got to her, she had an egg-sized knot on her head.  We immediately started in the direction of the concessions to find some ice.  In place of words, I lifted up her hair to show the nearly golf ball-sized protrusion to vendors until I found one with ice.  I grabbed a pair of spare underwear from my purse (the girls’ underwear, not mine) and began holding the ice on her head.  I suggested to Randy that he should take this time to go to the restroom as the crisis was under control.  He hadn’t been feeling well in the morning and needed a break.
A few moments later, I see a commotion that draws my attention from the girls.  White man down: canteen workers and zoo guests race to try to catch Randy as he collapses on the ground.  I show Anastasia how to hold her own ice and go see Randy.  He looks like he’s about to barf so I get a trash can and dump water on his head.  Three men are massaging his shoulders, another finds him a juice and 20-30 others stand and gawk. 
I return to Anastasia and Talula.  One man tells me I should be holding a warm compress not a cold one and another is suggesting 1122 (the 911-equivalent).  I say no to the first, but yes to the second.  I borrow Randy’s phone to call Khalil, our driver, to come and collect us.  We had sent him home thinking we would be at the zoo most of the day.  I buy the girls some ice creams to distract them from all the drama and to show some appreciation to the guy that gave us the ice in the first place.  Upon my return from that, I see that expression on Randy’s that I saw on the plane ride from Morocco: he’s about to go down again.  I yell this to the men still rubbing him, they don’t understand, but manage to catch him anyways.
It’s about this time that the ambulance arrives.  Anastasia sees the uniforms and dives under the table, strongly refusing any assistance.  While I’m trying to drag her out, Randy disappears.  A stranger says “BP” which I translate to “the paramedics took Randy to the ambulance to check his blood pressure.”
While waiting outside an entrance to the zoo, I buy more junk to entertain the girls, repeatedly try to contact Khalil as we are now at a different gate than we were dropped and endure the ogles of a bus full of school boys.  I also assure the zoo administrator that we do not want to make any complaints; this fiasco was all our own doing.
I hadn’t told Khalil about what was going down at the zoo because I thought he would have trouble understanding and/or try to drive too quickly to save us.  Thus when a kind by-stander gave him a synopsis he was visibly upset.  Once in the car he told us that “I am responsible for you” and that in the future he will not leave us unattended in public places.
The afternoon was much less eventful.  Khalil presented Talula with a creepy, winged doll that had glowing eyes and sang the same Carpenter verse over and over:
“When I was young
I'd listen to the radio
Waitin' for my favorite songs

When they played I'd sing along
It made me smile.
Those were such happy times”
[Yesterday Once More (Reprise)]
Midafternoon we had Talula’s birthday cake and presents on one of the roof’s balconies.  While there we viewed a hoopoe (a favorite bird we recognized from Abu Dhabi), sneaked peaks at the Eid goats in our neighbor’s yard before they are slaughtered, colored with new markers, dressed and re-dressed a new Moxie doll and tried to sneak photos of Anastasia’s shocking forehead.

Anastasia and Talula carefully placed all their "friends" on the steps multiple times a few nights ago.  They said it was like how their teachers get them to sit at school.




"new" swing from Ramona and Ric.  It's in a nice shady spot to observe birds, squirrels, cats and plants.  The girls use it as a piece of playground equipment.