07 April 2018

2018 North Pakistan


A Quick Trip into the Lower Himalayas
By Randall D. Ball


Early Monday morning, the day after Easter, we joined a small tour group (our family of four, fellow teachers at LAS Sara and Rose, our guide Arshad, a security guard Hossnain, and a driver Haroon) for a trip up north into the Himalayas.  Our first day was mostly driving:  four hours to Islamabad via motorway, breakfast, then another two and a half hours up the more winding Kashmir Road to Nathiagali.  We relaxed that afternoon, enjoying the mountain view from our hotel room (Hotel Elites, which was nice enough but not quite up to its name) and only going out briefly for dinner (pizza and ice cream about a five-minute drive down the mountain at a little place called Sweet Tooth, where I ran into three students, of course—no escaping them!).
                
Tuesday was a day in Nathiagali.  After breakfast at the hotel, we spent the morning walking up a little mountain road to St. Mathew’s Church, no longer in operation, just a tourist site now.  Once we found the watchman, who kindly let us in once he hear foreigners were there to see it, we were allowed inside.  Built in 1914 by the British, the church stands tall along a mountain ridge surrounded by  cedars and pines...and a barbed wire fence.  After a good Pakistani lunch (redundant, I know), we then hiked up the steep trail toward Mukshpuri.  At the trailhead, there is a fork—both trails lead to the same spot, but one is a more gradual (and thus longer but easier) climb.  I could have sworn the guide told us we were taking the easier climb, but from the start, it looked like the steeper version.  About half way up, Anastasia was done, and I gladly offered to stay behind with her while the others continued upwards, although they didn’t make it to the top either.  Anastasia has this fairly-recent fear of heights, unfortunately, which was severely tested on this trip.  She also spent a lot of time worrying:  that we wouldn’t make it down the trail before dark and they’d close the gate and we’d have to sleep in the mountains, that an earthquake might split the mountain in two while we were up there, that a rock might slide down and squish us, and so forth.  She has quite the imagination—I’ll give her that.  Talula, meanwhile, was loving the snow—and our guide Arshad.  She talked his ear off and spent a lot of time hanging out with him, seldom leaving his side.  He was very good with her, though, and I know she loved the attention.  Dinner that night was back at Sweet Tooth, but we only felt like ice cream.  I teased Anastasia that we didn’t earn all of our ice cream and would just have to share one.
                
Wednesday was another long drive day, through winding roads with the speed-demon driver Haroon.  We drove through Abbottabad (yes, that Abbottabad),  Mansehra, Balakot (the Kunhar River swiftly churns through the middle of town, and there are some fun-looking bridges in the vicinity, including an adventurous suspension bridge or two), and finally up some serious switch-backs to Kiwai, a little village where some restaurants have set up tables at the base of a series of waterfalls.  The main reason for Kiwai’s existence, however, is that this is where jeep excursions often begin.  We had to leave our van behind and take jeeps eight kilometers up the mountain to Shogran, our mountaintop resort, where we stayed at the Cedarwood Chair Lift Resort.  Just as the previous hotel didn’t quite live up to its name, this one also lacked something in its name:  the chair lift.  We could see part of what once was a chair lift, but it looked as if they built only part of it several years ago and then just let it sit.  Funding problem, perhaps...or an unexpected issue with land rights?  The rooms were nothing spectacular—and the bathrooms were falling apart and leaking away, but the view was truly awesome.  We were on a little green plateau at about 8000 feet above sea level, surrounded by much taller snow-capped mountain peaks.  No matter which direction you looked, you’d see these huge mountains jutting into the sky—we were in the Himalayas.  (Just barely, but we were in them).
                
The following day, we returned to the jeeps, but this time, the track was much rougher as we slowly bumped and were jostled and tossed about as we made our way up Siri Paye.  The jeeps could only take us part of the way.  Then we were dropped off, exchanged our shoes for hiking boots (and walking sticks), and started trekking up the mountain “road” with its mud, snow, ice, and horse poop (you can also ride up and down if you’re not into walking).  We spent the day up in the mountains, with the girls having snowball fights and playing (and Anastasia often forgetting her phobia).  We saw Siri Lake, a picturesque pond really (if it weren’t for the trash that we’ve come to expect in the third world), but never made it as far as Payee Lake.  Talula also rode a horse briefly—she couldn’t decide which she liked more—snow or horses?  (Or Arshad). 
                
Friday, it felt as if we were going in reverse, but in double time.  We took the jeeps back down the mountain, re-joined our van in Kiwai, and made our way back down to the Kaghan Valley and through all those village towns to Abbottabad, where we then took the motorway back to Lahore.  Eleven hours later, we were home, with two more days of spring break to recuperate and relax before those final weeks of school before summer break.

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