7 Islands Holiday: UAE and the Philippines

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UAE and Philippines, Christmas Break, 2017

By Randall D. Ball

            Our annual Christmas holidays on an island hit a new record with seven islands this year:  from Abu Dhabi and Yas Island and Saadiyat Island in the United Arab Emirates to Manila, Cebu, Mactan and Bohol Islands in the Philippines.  The journey started with our usual “Freedom Flight” out of Lahore right after school closed for the winter break.  We flew to Dubai and then drove down to the Dhabi, our old stomping grounds and the birthplace of Anastasia and Talula.  We stayed over on Yas Island across from the Formula One race circuit track, and that night we enjoyed some “Mexican” for dinner at one of the hotel restaurants.

Sunday morning, we went to the Louvre on Saadiyat Island—the art was interesting enough but the building’s architecture was what was truly stunning.  From its spherical structure to its web-like design to the meeting of land and water, it’s an outstanding monument.  We splurged a bit with lunch there, right on the water.  Then we went into the city, into proper Abu Dhabi, driving along the old Corniche to Heritage Village (the girls pet a lot of cats there, and would pet cats throughout our trip, all the time missing their own kittens back home, August and Katrina).  There were plenty of changes along the Abu Dhabi waterfront—several new skyscrapers, certainly.  We stopped at Spinneys (an old grocery store favorite) for picnic items that we brought back to the hotel and ate outside by the playground, thus achieving the trifecta of al fresco dining (breakfast was buffet at the hotel, but they had seating outside).

Monday morning, Christmas Day, we hit nearby Yas Mall to see the movie Coco, which was fun and colorful and entertaining.  Then we returned to Abu Dhabi and our old neighborhood of Khalidiya and our second mall of the day (how Emirati!), where we met our old nanny Noy and had a little lunch followed by a walk to the old apartment building and then to Khalidiya Park.  Anastasia led us most of the way from the mall to our old apartment from memory, but she couldn’t remember much else.  Talula didn’t remember any of it.

Tuesday, after a leisurely morning at the hotel, we drove back to Dubai for our evening flight to Manila.  We landed in the Philippines Wednesday morning and checked into our hotel in Manila (the girls liked it because it rhymes with “vanilla”).  After a brief morning nap and lunch at the hotel, we took it easy by the rooftop pool...and then had dinner at the hotel.  We promised ourselves we’d actually leave the hotel the next day.

Sure enough, Thursday morning, we had breakfast at a nearby French cafe (the coffee and croissants were very tasty, and we briefly met (in passing) the owner, a Frenchman, of course, on our way out).  Then we walked to Ayala Triangle Gardens (a privately-owned garden which is no longer in the shape of a triangle because of further development, unfortunately), where the girls pet and played with cats for quite some time and then we had lunch at a little cafe alongside the gardens.  On our walk back to the hotel, Anastasia and I played “Count the Jeepneys.”  On our twenty-minute walk, we counted 68!  Back at the hotel, it was more time at the pool followed by a nice dinner at the rooftop restaurant adjacent to the pool.

            

Friday, after the same breakfast as yesterday, we walked past Ayala Triangle Gardens to the Greenbelt, a nice tropical garden-and-pond area surrounded by a mall.  We wandered and meandered around for a bit, but there weren’t any cats to pet so the girls were ready to return to the Triangle Gardens that are more like Rhombus Gardens now.  We had a very nice lunch at a better restaurant than the previous day, and then we were back at the hotel for about an hour before catching our ride to the port for a sunset dinner cruise on Manila Bay.  The cruise began, however, well after sunset, so it was really a night-time cruise, but instead of a sunset (which we saw from land anyway), we did get to see some fireworks over the marina.  The dinner was simple but good, and they tried to keep it fairly traditional with a little rice, salad, fruit, and a small helping each of chicken, beef, fried fish, and pork (with pineapple).

            

Saturday, we mixed it up for breakfast by eating doughnuts at the 7 Eleven.  Then we caught a cab (the girls were growing tired of walking) to old downtown Manila and San Augustin Church, oldest church in Manila, founded in 1571, which included a museum and some nice gardens.  We had lunch back in Makati (where our hotel was):  Wendy’s for the girls and crepes for Christine and me, followed by more pool time.  Clearly, we were setting a routine:  sightseeing in the mornings and pool time in the afternoons.

            

That evening, our final one in Manila and the day before New Year’s Eve, we had a memorable dinner at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant.  First, both girls kept returning to the poolside to sit on the pool chairs, with Anastasia flirting with a couple of older boys.  “At least they’re gay,” Christine said.  Yes, Anastasia, keep on flirting with the gay ones.  Meanwhile, Talula broke down in tears when she was told they weren’t serving fried calamari that night.  Wait staff conferred with the chef, who somehow made it happen.  Christine and Anastasia had grilled prawns and I had grilled liempo (pork belly) again.  Anastasia also enjoyed looking over the city, and Talula danced—at least in her seat—to some decent live music.  We even saw some fireworks, which were set off from a nearby building below us.  As Christine said, “I’ve never seen fireworks from above before.”  At the conclusion of the evening, Talula said it was the best restaurant ever.  Success.

            

Sunday morning, we caught an early flight to Cebu City and had a pretty quiet, subdued New Year’s Eve at the hotel (although we did walk over to the Ayala Mall across the street in the late afternoon—Ayala is a big name in the Philippines—there’s some history AND some money there).  That night, Christine and I were awakened by the hotel’s New Year’s Eve festivities, a live band and fireworks to ring in 2018.  Fortunately, by 12:30 it all died down.  Our room overlooked the pool about ten stories below, where the big party was.  The girls slept through it all, somehow.

            

Monday, New Year’s Day, most everything was closed, so we had a long breakfast at the hotel followed by some “play” back in the room involving the girls pretending to be various forms of marine life.  We then sprung for the buffet lunch, including all forms of salads, as long as it’s seafood, meats (I had some pig ears), more fish, pasta, and desserts, the highlight for the girls being the chocolate fondue.  They loved dipping fruit and marshmallows into the flowing “chocolate fountain.”  The afternoon involved plenty of pool time for the girls and drinks by the pool.

            

Tuesday, we took a taxi downtown, where we walked around Fort San Pedro, where the Spanish first occupied the Philippines.  Anastasia and Talula, especially the latter, pet some more cats.  Crossing the Plaza Independencia, we then saw Magellan’s Cross.  The original, planted by Magellan in 1521 right before he was killed on the next island over, is still there, but it’s now encased in tindaloo wood for protection.  From there, we entered Saint Nino Basilica, where we stood in line with all the locals to see the famed doll of baby Jesus inside.  A cab ride to Ayala Mall, across from our hotel, and we had lunch at the Red Lizard, a Mexican restaurant with a wrestling theme in the style of Nacho Libre. 

            

That night back at the hotel, Talula and I had some apparently bad poached grouper in a banana leaf for dinner.  We both got sick, which altered the next day’s plans:  Christine and Anastasia took a day tour to Bohol Island (a two-hour ferry ride over, a tour of the famous Chocolate Hills, a lunch river cruise, a visit with some of the smallest monkeys in the world, the tarsier monkeys, and back to Cebu late).  Talula and I, meanwhile, rested in the morning before finally venturing out to the mall briefly.  We also spent the late afternoon at the pool, when we were feeling better.  Christine and Anastasia got in late, past 9:00 PM (which counts as late for us these days).

            

Thursday morning was a lazy one after an early breakfast, but then we took a taxi downtown to visit two old houses turned into museums:  the Yap-Sandiego Ancestral House (which had a few cats for the girls to OOOOH and AHHHH over) and, around the corner, the even better Casa Gorordo Museum, which provided insight into the history and architecture of the area, especially the Chinese and Spanish influence.  We had a nice lunch at the museum as well.  Also nearby was the Heritage of Cebu Monument, a fascinating series of very tall, connected statues and scenes telling a few tales of Cebu, all as a huge centerpiece around a historic, small square.  The late afternoon was—you guessed it—more pool time.

            

The next day, we had a full-day tour to Kawasan Falls about three hours south of Cebu City near the village of Badian.  The south road took us through busy and often congested coastal cities and then through some mountains to the southwest coast, into a very tropical rainforest with numerous waterfalls.  Along the way, we also passed some cock fighting.  Local color.  Kawasan Falls is a popular spot, as we saw by the sheer number of tourists, mostly Filipino.  A thirty-minute hike along a small river took us to the first, lower falls, but we stopped for lunch about halfway at a pleasant, rustic outdoor (but with a roof) cafe as the rain poured.  The food was simple but good, including rice, vegetable chop suey, and fried calamari, but the highlight was this little boy who clearly belonged to our waitress.  He was probably three years old and helped his mother clear tables, but what he did next—he stood at the top step of the cafe, looking out into the rain, and urinated straight down the main steps to the cafe.  At least he was facing outward.

            

As the rain cleared, we continued our hike.  We didn’t spent time at the lower falls—way too crowded.  But a further, slightly more vigorous, and absolutely more scenic walk to the second falls was worthwhile.  The hike itself was cool, with several unusual, narrow bridges of wood and/or bamboo, and the upper falls weren’t nearly as crowded.  Christine and Talula rented life jackets and swam in the water at the base of the falls.  They even swam behind and through a smaller set of falls.  Some folks were even diving into the water from the top of the waterfalls.  After about three hours, we were back at the parking lot (after a quick dessert stop for some fried banana with sugar), where our driver for the day was waiting to take us back to Cebu City.  Friday night traffic in town was very congested; our final 10-15 kilometers took an hour.

            

That night, I heard sirens—they sounded like fire engine sirens—nearby.  I heard them throughout the night, and they even affected my dreams.  I dreamt that the day after we left, our hotel burned down.

            

In the morning, I heard more sirens and finally looked out the window.  Smoke was pouring from a location just around the corner from our L-shaped hotel, toward the front of the building.  It was Ayala Mall, just across the street, and it was on fire.  The fire raged all day long, so we saw quite a bit of smoke.  Fortunately, most of it was blowing away from us, so we spent much of the day at the pool.  We were modern-day Neros, lounging by the pool while the mall burned.

            

We had some decent poolside lounge chairs, at least, although I was sitting next to—and within earshot—of two vapid Australians having a silly debate over the length of their layover in Manila.  Their flight departed Cebu at 8:30 that night and landed in Manila at 9:45 (no time difference either), and then their connecting flight was at 1:45 in the morning.  They finally settled their debate, agreeing they had just over five hours’ layover in Manila.  Ooops!

            

Soon enough, those girls were replaced by the Selfie Twins, two young Filipino guys who kept posing all over the deck and taking ridiculous selfies.  They also had a rousing, annoyingly boisterous game of Rock-Paper-Scissors right in front of us.

            

Other than that, the occasional smoke from the ongoing fire, and a massive onslaught of an extended Korean family (or five) who occupied the entire pool for an hour, it was a fine way to spend an afternoon.  Christine even got a massage right before dinner (Latino night at the hotel buffet).

            

Sunday was another leisurely morning before we took a taxi ten kilometres—but an hour’s drive (traffic is bad, and our destination, Mactan Island, is the most densely-populated island in the Philippines) to a pretty fancy resort.  As soon as we arrived and took a quick walk around, Talula started getting excited about all the pools and lagoons and things to do. “This is the best place ever!” she declared in a state of awe and joyous anticipation. 

            

So Sunday afternoon we explored the many surrounding pools and swimming lagoons—both salt water and fresh, with water slides, cliff diving, and man-made waterfalls and caves.  Talula even tried archery while Anastasia ran the obstacle course at a “Junior Boot Camp” (think of a children’s version of the Crucible at Parris Island).

            

We also had unlimited free homemade ice cream and milkshakes (the peanut butter chocolate variety was a hit all around).

            

Our evening concluded with a stop at Alien Abduction, a second-floor combination bar/ice cream parlor (yes, you read that right) overlooking the main lagoons with an alien theme, trance music, fun lighting, and even “alien heads” in class containers.  Trippy.

            

Monday, we were up early for breakfast, which also enabled us to get a jump start on others for activities such as:  tandem bike riding, kayaking (the girls even had their own little kayaks for this), more pool time and water slides and cliff diving, and some fun at the game room, where we played table tennis, foosball, and air hockey.

            

We had a picnic lunch on the beach, and then it was time for the girls to have fun at a craft station, first by making dream catchers and then by having their hair braided.  Then they drove little electric Tesla cars around, even earning their own “driver’s license” in spite of their poor driving, crashing into each other, running up on curbs, and even trying to run down innocent pedestrians.  After more archery, boot camp, tandem bike riding, air hockey, and a horse-drawn carriage ride, it was time for dinner, at Palermo, a pasta and tapas place with a European vibe. 

            

After dinner, we caught a Hawaiian luau (we missed the whole roasted pig but not the after-dinner show), with fire dancers and Hula girls and a limbo contest.  Anastasia was picked by one of the dancers to be one of the audience participants and was clearly ecstatic.

            

All this was just one day.

            

Tuesday was more of the same and then some:  Talula woke us up early again, so early breakfast.  The girls went kayaking again, followed by swimming at the “volcano pool” (Had a fountain in the middle shaped like a volcano).  Then it was time for divide and conquer: I took Anastasia tandem bike riding followed by air hockey and billiards while Christine took Talula to archery and rock climbing.  Both girls also drove the electric cars around some more, and we had more free ice cream, and the girls went crab hunting at the beach which led to some organized crab races—just one of many events the resort provided throughout the day, every day.

At one point, Anastasia was showing off her “catch of the day”:  “Look, I have a Herbert crab!”

“A hermit crab?”

“That’s what I said! A Herbert crab!

That evening, we hit the Alien Abduction Club for dessert BEFORE dinner, at Fiji, a good Japanese restaurant on the beach at the resort.  Afterwards, Anastasia was eager to return to Alien Abduction to see the live music, which started at 8:30.  Talula was fast asleep by then, so Christine stayed behind while I took Anastasia clubbing.  Anastasia was imagining kids her age dancing and having a good old time, but when we got there, it was just us,  the band (an old guy on a synthesizer and a younger woman reading lyrics in a sing-whisper), and two waitresses, who were dressed in short and shiny “space-age costumes” with some funny alien-like headgear.  It’s hard to explain this club.

Wednesday, we might have slowed down a bit: Talula still woke us up early, and we had another early breakfast.  There was more tandem bike riding and rock climbing and swimming and beach time, but we were clearly slowing down a bit (except when it came to all that free ice cream). 

            

While the girls played at the beach, looking for “Herbert” crabs and building sand castles (actually, I think they were trying to build a sand resort like the one we were at), Christine and I sat at an isolated little table overlooking the little beach.  There was a little tiki bar nearby, so I went over to get us drinks while we read. 

While I waited for the bartender, one girl seated at the bar (not Australian this time but North American) looked over at the nearby Fiji Restaurant and loudly remarked to her friend, “You know there’s an island called Fiji?"

Her friend shook her head.  “Never heard of it.”

           “I think it’s right next to the ‘MAL-divs.’”  Sigh.  How do they find me?

We also walked all around the resort, checking out birds and fish by the mangroves and gearing up for our sad goodbye. Dinner was back at Fiji, followed by dessert at Alien Abduction.

We had Thursday morning at the resort still (Christine and the girls had their palms read, and we had more bike riding and game room time), but the overall attitude was that our holiday was over, all but the flights back to Lahore, where colder weather and smog awaited.  But soon enough winter will be over, and before too long, we’ll have to decide which island or islands to hit next Christmas.

Spring Break Lahore

I've always liked this building along Mall Road

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Our quiet little Spring Break in Lahore ended up being pretty jam packed with fun. Events during the week included: playdates at Aarno, Esha and Zain/Suraya's houses, M-TH daily yoga for Christine, a Rafi Peer Puppet Festival, 2 trips to the home of Rangdey Truck Art, a failed attempt to see Beauty and the Beast (technological issues), a 'Thank You' massage and facial for Christine from a colleague, lots of grading by Randy, a Sunday brunch date, Mahnoor's birthday party, 2 LAS-hosted events- a pool party and victorious night of pub trivia at the International Club, first ever friends sleepover and a zoo trip during our stay across the street at the Avari Hotel. Busy times, good times.

Murree and Taxila

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Our Quick Trip to Murree

By

Randall D. Ball

With just over three weeks for our Christmas vacation and having spent the first two weeks in Borneo, we wanted to do something in the last few days of our holiday.  So, we headed north, into the hills, into the mountains north of Islamabad.  We had a good but quick trip north, including getting far enough north (in the Himalayas) to get out of Punjab and into the province of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and far enough west a day later to get into the KP (or Northwest Frontier Province) as well.

The girls definitely saw snow--lots of it--and got to play in it for the first time.

We were up a lot higher than I thought we would be--by the time we hit Ayubia National Park near Nathia Gali we were nearly at 10,000 feet at the park...and even our hotel in Murree was around 7500 feet.

We took a pretty thrilling--and chilling (it was COLD)--ride in a three-kilometer chairlift up a mountaintop...and back down.  Girls were scared but also a bit excited about it.  

And then on our Islamabad day, we went west on the road toward Peshawar to visit the ruins of Taxila, visiting the museum first and then three ancient sites.

Christmas 2016 in Borneo

Silly sisters on the morning cruise that yielded the orangutans.

Christmas 2016 in Borneo
By

Randall D. Ball

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Sticking with tradition for at least another year, we spent our Christmas holiday on an island:  Borneo.

Flying from our home in Lahore, Pakistan, to Sri Lanka, with an overnight stay in Colombo courtesy of the airline, we then flew on Christmas Eve from Colombo through Kuala Lumpur to Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Borneo, Malaysia (city, state, island, country).  We spent Christmas Day and the next in Kota Kinabalu, relaxing at the hotel, reading, eating, and splashing in the rooftop pool.  It was a nice way to unwind before our tour of Borneo really began.

Tuesday the 27^th of December, we were picked up by our tour guide and driver and transferred about ten minutes away to a different hotel—a much nicer one at that.  We were introduced to our guide David and driver Fender, both very nice and knowledgeable and helpful.  That night, we were driven a bit up into the mountains to the Mari Mari Cultural Village, where we saw replicas of various tribal houses and villages, sampled food, participated in a few fun activities, and enjoyed a traditional music and dance performance (Anastasia even joined in on stage!) followed by dinner. For Talula, the highlight was all the kittens around.  And she’d see even more throughout our tour, much to her delight.  For Anastasia, the highlight was probably the tapioca and the honey tastings.  They also had some rice wine, which was all right but nothing special.

Wednesday morning at breakfast in the hotel, Anastasia went on her own to get some chicken sausage at the buffet.  She asked a boy about her age for assistance.  For the rest of the holiday, we would poke fun at her and her new boyfriend, “Sausage Boy.”  (My favourite bit was telling her that she liked him because she never “sausage” a face as his.  Yes, “Dad Jokes” really are that awesome).

After breakfast we left the city and headed for the mountains.  On our way to Mt. Kinabalu, we stopped along a river and traversed a suspension bridge that led directly into a village market—giving us some local flavor.  At the national park surrounding Mt. Kinabalu, we explored a botanical garden and went on a little nature walk.  Anastasia enjoyed leading the way, while our tour guide David walked more with Christine and me to tell us about the flora and fauna and about the mountain itself and surrounding park.  It’s a huge place.  After lunch, we had another hike up a mountain, this one a bit more strenuous.  It was only five hundred meters, but it was five hundred meters of climbing up a mountain side.  Anastasia just about ran up the path, climbing the steps as quickly as she could, and I struggled to keep up with her while Christine had the unenviable job of encouraging Talula to keep trudging up the pathway.  In the middle was David, our guide, probably not too sure with whom to walk.  

Once we made it high up into the treetops, we then enjoyed a pretty thrilling canopy walk.  It was much higher than some of the walks we had done in New Zealand or Florida, and the view was incredible.  In the same area as the canopy walk, we also explored a butterfly garden and saw—and smelled—some sulphur hot springs.

That night we stayed at a pine resort in the mountains.  Christine and I sat out on the front porch overlooking Mt. Kinabalu and sipped some wine while the girls ate ice cream.  Win win.
 

Walking around the resort that evening with the girls, I had a little conversation with them. Talula told me that I was a strong boy.

“Why not a man?” I asked her.

“Okay, you’re a strong old man.”

I winced.  “Old?  Let’s go back to boy.”

She replied, “But you ARE old, Daddy.”

Thanks, Talula.

The next day, we had a long overland transfer, five hours, to our rainforest lodge.  However, we made a few stops along the way, including a stop for refreshments at a little roadside restaurant serving up some pork pau (a Chinese bun, essentially).  We also stopped to see a couple of very famous flowers that were in bloom:  the Rafflesia, which are humongous flowering plants found in Southeast Asia.  They’re not easy to find, which explains why we had to pay an admission fee to get in to see these impressive flowers.

From the tour van, we then transferred at a jetty onto a little narrow boat to cross the Sukau Kinabatangan River to our rainforest lodge.  From there, we would take a series of boat cruises, starting late that afternoon.  On our first boat cruise, we spotted hornbills, several hawks, egrets, a kingfisher, a blue-throated bee-eater, and numerous proboscis monkeys.  At the lodge itself, we would see wild boar, turkeys, and many monkeys, mostly long-tailed and short-tailed macaques. 

Our second day in the rainforest involved three separate boat rides of two hours each:  one early morning, one late afternoon, and one night cruise.  During our early-morning cruise, we saw more proboscis monkeys, hornbills, eagles, and, most importantly, orang-utans!  There was a group, or rather, a congress, of about eight orang-utans hanging in a tree, eating and playing.  

During the afternoon cruise, we saw another highlight:  a crocodile.  We saw two more crocs on the night cruise, which was interesting.  David used a heavy-duty flashlight to search for animals, and occasionally turned it off to give us complete darkness (the stars were amazingly bright).  We saw several sleeping critters:  two monkeys cuddled together in a tree, a very cute little kingfisher gripping a branch and sleeping soundly, and other birds.  The crocodiles were awake, of course, as was the large brown owl, a buffy fish owl who was perched on a limb over the water, hunting for fish, presumably.  We found an additional sleeping animal on our boat:  Talula.  She denied it, but we have pictures.

The following day, Saturday, was New Year’s Eve.  We left the rainforest lodge for Gomantong Caves, where we saw a mother and baby orang-utan on a walkway in the jungle before entering the bat cave.  The cave has a significant economic impact in the community, but not just due to tourism.  Besides all the bats in the caves, there are also swiftlets whose bird nests are edible, if you so desire, and are a popular delicacy in China.  Even less appetizing in the cave would be all the roaches there, crawling everywhere, including all along the walkway and the railings.  The girls in particular were creeped out by the roaches.  And as much as you may want to grab the hand rails, think twice.  The smell of bat guano is also strong in places, adding another element to assault one’s senses.

We then drove onward to Sandakan, where we had a nice lunch on a hill overlooking the water at an English tea house.  Then we visited two animal sanctuaries, conveniently located next to one another:  one for sun bears and one for orang-utans.  We could also hear pygmy elephants in the jungle, but we didn’t get to actually see them.

From there it was a quick half-hour flight back to Kota Kinabalu, a more favorable option than driving six or seven hours through the mountains again.  It was New Year’s Eve, and we celebrated by going to the mall across the street from our hotel and having sushi for dinner there.

Sunday, New Year’s Day, we were on the water.  First, we took a boat (something significantly larger—and covered—than the ones in the rainforest) out to a coral reef in the Tunku Abdul Rehman Marine Park.  The girls tried snorkelling for the first time.  Talula spent a little more time in the water than her sister, however.  Within a few seconds of being in the water, Anastasia suddenly freaked out and swam back to the boat.  She thought she had seen a huge fish, right below her.   Something big and blue.  It was one of the dive master’s fins.  Christine spent more time on the water, although in our second snorkelling location, the girls took turns on an inflatable goose tied behind the boat, which was safely anchored.  (Everyone also had floatation jackets on).  After the snorkelling sessions, we had lunch and some beach time on little Gaya Island where we encountered some wild boar and a few giant lizards.

Then we were transferred back to our hotel and our tour was over.  We had two more days in Kota Kinabalu, just to relax, walk around a bit, enjoy some seafood and local food, including a meal served entirely on banana leaves, and splash in the hotel pool.  We simply bathed in the warmth of the nearly-Equatorial sunshine before heading back to the cold and smog of wintertime Lahore.  As we flew home on Thursday, 5 January, we left Kota Kinabalu’s sunshine behind, flying through Kuala Lumpur, and then boarded our first successful flight on Pakistan Airways (a previous attempt in the spring resulted in a cancelled flight and thus a cancelled vacation), where we landed amid some pretty severe smog in Lahore.

We are ready for summer already.  Or at least spring.

Salalalalalalalalah, Eid al Adha 2016

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With a full week off for Eid Al-Adha this September, we flew from Lahore through Muscat to Salalah in southern Oman, known for its green mountains and valleys thanks to Khareef (monsoon) season that lasts throughout the summer and ends in September.  While much of the Arabian peninsula is desert, and indeed parts of Salalah too, the Dhofar region in southern Oman is much greener than the rest of the country.

On our first full day in Oman, a Sunday, we let the girls play at our resort hotel’s playground after breakfast, thus starting a regular routine for the rest of the trip.  Then we drove out to Al-Mughsayl Beach, thirty kilometers west of Salalah.  We visited Marnif Cave (definitely a misnomer since it’s really just an eroded rocky outcropping that you walk under) and some blowholes nearby.  The girls had a blast gettings soaked there as each big wave spurted out from under the rocks.

Then we tried a restaurant there overlooking the ocean.  Originally, we tried to order chicken nuggets and sandwiches from the menu, but the waiter told us they didn’t have that.  He suggested chicken tenders and French fries, so we agreed to that.  Then, he came back and told us no chicken--just the fries.  We left.

We ended up eating at a Lebanese restaurant near the hotel--not an oceanside view, but the food was really good.  They had excellent fattoush, possibly the best I’ve ever had, plus very good hummous, filafel, lemon juice with mint, the usual.  Our day then ended with time in the hotel pool, which was huge and had a children’s pool and a hot tub as well, so the girls divided their time not quite equally among those attractions.

Monday, we drove eastward to Taqah, thirty-five kilometers away.  We climbed a little hill to the small town’s fort overlooking Taqah--a pretty scenic view that also gave us a vantage point to some animal slaughtering in celebration of Eid.  Goats were the primary food source, although we did see a guy walking around town with a cow head.  We also saw some animal entrails on the side of the highway a few times.  Also in Taqah, we spent some by the khor (the beach) where some fresh water rain into the ocean.  There were quite a few birds, some fish, some greenery.  It was a pleasant location.  Back in Salalah, we hit the mall, where we enjoyed lunch at a coffee shop, reminiscent of the old days in Abu Dhabi.

The next day, we drove up into the Dhofar Mountains north of Salalah, thus completing each direction one could go without running straight into the ocean.  We visited the tomb of An-Nabi Ayyub (the Biblical Job), almost certainly NOT his legitimate final resting place.  Nevertheless, the hilltop spot provided views of some beautiful vistas of nearby wadis (valleys) and mountainsides.  We had a quick picnic lunch in the mountains before heading back down the southern slopes to town and more pool time at the hotel.

Wednesday, we visited the Al Baleed Archaeological Site nearby.  We had a fairly long walk all around the site, including a decent oceanside boardwalk view.  Then we visited the adjacent Land of Frankincense Museum, which is much more than frankincense.  It provided a solid history of the archaeological site and of Salalah and Oman in general.  Afterward, we stopped at a coconut stall and bought one for each of us.  The guy running the stall cut each coconut open and inserted a straw--instant refreshment.  We also ate the coconut after finishing the juice.  Then it was on to another Lebanese restaurant, this one with a family room where we ate in a private little cubicle with a pair of couches, a table, and a big flat-screen TV where we watched Sherlock Holmes--in English, a treat since our hotel room TV had nothing in English.  The hummous was really good, but the mixed seafood grill (fish, prawns, squid) was overcooked.  At least the lemon juice with mint was decent.

The following day, we picked up some picnic grub at a Lulu Hypermarket (yet another reminder of Abu Dhabi) and headed west again, this time past Al-Mughsayl Beach up into the green Dhofar Mountains. We had a mountaintop picnic overlooking a very scenic valley that, after a quick hike around a hill, led to a view of a private beach and inlet boasting some very green ocean water.  We saw camels grazing on the mountain tops--quite an unusual, unexpected sight.  

We also saw hundreds of camels outside Salalah, around various nomad-like farms and tent camps. Some tents had huge outdoor grills serving up goat and camel meat, with the animal skins hanging on display like storefront decorations.  This was also an unusual area because of the numerous isolated playgrounds scattered along the way.  Presumably, families would buy the meat and then have picnics near these playgrounds, but it seemed to be either too early in the day or too late in the season for us.  The monsoon rains from Khareef season were pretty much over, although the mountains and valleys were still very green and there was still quite a bit of Salalah’s characteristic fog in the mountains, adding a little mystery and a lot of vegetation to an otherwise desert region.

Friday was our final day in Oman.  We spent a leisurely morning at the hotel resort, between the children’s playground, the beach, and the pool, followed by a visit to the mall again after checking out of the hotel, and then we flew back to Lahore that night (after an eight-hour layover in Muscat).